Map

Here is the map:

https://onthegomap.com/s/ria28iff

Summary

Wednesday 11th January

South Island here we come. Reid and I got up and out of the hostel and walked towards the ferry, arriving at the terminal at 07:30. There was rain swirling around, appropriate for the windiest city in the world. Chicago, pfff, it wishes! The rain was forecast for only today though, so hopefully the weather will pick up in the following days.

We checked our packs in. Not too pleased with that, I was wanting to keep it with me, but rules are rules. Can’t take my walking poles aboard apparently! No idea why, they’re hardly weapons or anything! Rob met us there and we boarded the MV Kaitaki and found ourselves a sofa looking over the back of the ferry. It was late in departing, but that’s OK, to be expected really.

When we did get going, the excitement piled on. South Island! Wow! It was like a start to a whole new adventure, a whole new hike. I sat and read for most of the journey, the ferry swelling and lumbering across the waves, clumsily carving it’s way through the wind and rain. Reid saw some dolphins at one point, but other than that, the mist and rain prevented many good views as we passed across the Cook Strait.

We arrived into Picton and collected our bags at a baggage claim much like an airport. Better than the Spirit of Tasmania had, they just had all the bags jumbled into the back of a golf cart. We got our packs and set off into the sideways drizzle. There was a lot of wind and not so much rain but we still got soaked walking through Picton. Some lunch, and then off to the water taxi that would take us round to the start of the Queen Charlotte Track, the QCT. This was a great walk and we had heard great things about it, so expectations were high!

The skipper of the water taxi was a descendant of the Maori tribe that lived in the Sounds so he gave a wonderful running commentary of the history of the place. He liked saying “Good stuff” in a proper Kiwi accent. Red band boots and glasses.

Still, we didn’t see much from all the drizzle. I felt real bad for the people who had just booked a tour of the Sounds which were also on the same vessel. He deposited us at Ship Cove and we waved him off, peering out from under our rain jacket peeked hoods. We had a meander about the Cook Memorial before we headed on up the track. It would have been such a cool life (but dangerous, and potentially lonely) being an adventurer exploring the corners of the world and charting unknown areas in the early 18th century. Perfect job, without the colonisation business though. Just want innocent adventures really.

The QCT was a happy clay track and we pushed on and up. We had a measly 6km to do today, easy peasy. The trees dripped on us and the wind whistled around. There were weka birds, kiwi lookalikes who were cheeky and walked right up to you, hoping for some food. A tonne of other bird sounds from around us rang in our ears too, stunning. The weather wasn’t putting off their show it seemed! We happily plowed along the track, going up and over the saddle and down the other side into Schoolhouse Bay where we pitched up for the evening under some trees. The wind was picking up and I took shelter in my tent, reading the early evening away until I emerged for food and tea and biscuits. How civilised.

Thursday 12th January

Do you know, one of the greatest pleasures in life, besides the obvious (food!), is packing up a condensation-free, dry tent. That’s what I did this morning despite a whole night of rain. Seems it was windy enough to dry my tent by the time I got up to see the pink sky over the Sounds.

I set off ahead of Rob and Reid and bumbled along all morning, stopping frequently to gaze over the beautiful views the rising sun shone upon. The Sounds were drowned valleys, this area geologically sinking and slowly filling up with water over many many millions of years. As such, looking over them, they had funny shapes. Wriggly shapes and unexpected turns, little nooks and crannies named after intrepid European adventurers, all filled with turquoise water. It was simply stunning. Words don’t do justice.

There were a lot of information boards about the history of the area. It had been commercially forested but was now trying to be rewilded to go back to it’s original, native state. That meant that they were poisoning wilding pines which had been brought in and planted. Carcasses of these pines stuck up out of the native bush, creating a bizarre sight at times. All for a good cause though.

I wondered along, following the track, twisting and winding it’s way along the outline of these coves and bays and sounds. Aquamarine, turquoise, sapphire, navy… Find every word for the colour blue and you’d find that shade of blue in the water for sure. Magical.

Rob and Reid caught up with me for lunch at camp bay where we then went for a swim. It was freezing! I tested it with a toe dipped cautiously in, before realising the best way to get myself in was to run along the pier, and keep running off the end. Cannonball, of course. No elegance when it comes to me and water. I surfaced gasping, regretting, maybe screaming, before a little bit of doggy paddle and breaststroke and I acclimatised before long and enjoyed the swim back to shore. Don’t get me wrong, I’m no Phelps, I very slowly got myself back on dry land.

We toweled ourselves down, drying in the sun a little before continuing on. I held back from the other two. It was easy walking so I had decided to carry on listening to my audiobook, Pride and Prejudice. Oooooh, Ms. Bennett got a proposal from Mr. Darcy. Oooooh, she turned him down. Drama. I’m really enjoying audiobooks, a novel way of enjoying literature (badoom tsss). Plus, I learn how to pronounce words properly unlike if you read it in your head and just guess how it’s meant to sound.

We got to Eatwells Lookout. Mr. Eatwell was a naturalist who encouraged young people to get out into nature. Cool guy. But the lookout… Best views ever. We could see all the way to the North Island and my dear Tararuas. In the foreground, we saw the wriggling, twisty windy sounds filled up with all their blueness. The sun was up, bright and it was just wonderful.

We got into camp half an hour later and pitched up under some trees with some wekas poking around our stuff, literally under our feet. Cheeky buggers. We had to chase off a couple who were pecking at mine and Rob’s tents when we turned our backs. They just wanted food. We had a nice dinner, joined by several hikers before we called it a night. The Queen Charlotte Track had been producing the goods thus far.

Friday 13th January

We set off from the beautiful view from Bay of Many Coves camp. Good campsite that. Lots of wekas and possums though, Reid and Rob both fought off several in the night whilst I slept peacefully. Rob had lost a tent peg that he suspects a weka took. Spoilers, it was just in his bag. I keep all my food in my inner tent, beside me as I sleep after all.

It was a muggy day. Overcast and with a cool wind. I guess I should get used to that over the coming several weeks, it will get cooler as we make our way further south after all. Science, and all. Still, the beginning of the day was an uphill so we got warmed up quickly.

We chuntered along in a line, chatting nonsense, but also asking some interesting questions. An introspective mood this morning. What had we learnt on the trail so far? What are our aims for the South Island? What things belong on the TA only and never in the real world (eating Marmite out the jar with a spoon!)? How would we rate the North Island as a Google review? You know, questions like that. Good fun, good stuff chatting about that sorta thing as we panted our way up and down the ridge. We also stood and watched some birds for a while. You should check out the sound of a Bell Bird, it’s well cool. I think when I have a garden, I’d love to encourage songbirds to live there.

We soon made it to Black Rock Camp and we had a coffee break. I got cracking again before Rob and Reid, not wanting to hang around really and get moving once more. I put on Pride and Prejudice. I was near the end so I may as well finish it. Oooooh Lizzy has discovered she was all wrong about Mr. Darcy. Oooooh she likes Pemberley. Oooooh Lydia (the fool) eloped with wicked Whickham. Shocking. I trudged along, up and down, listening to it being read aloud to me. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, I’m surprised by how much I like audiobooks.

I got to Shamrock Ridge Viewpoint for lunchtime and ate my lunch with a view of the blue blue sounds on my right and my left. Stunning, loved it so much. I chatted with Liam before Rob and Reid arrived. They started their lunch as I finished and packed up, and I headed out before them again.

Down down down along a smooth, easy track. Bike tracks were clear in the mud, as were hiker footprints. Splendid views were ever present and kept revealing themselves around every corner I went. I kept on with my book, enjoying it as the story was being wrapped up. I passed Onahau Bay and kept on the track, placing one foot in front of the other, engrossed in my story. I hopped over streams crossing my path, walked through muddy patches, brushed through overgrown grass and avoided slips as I headed along and round to Grove Arm Lookout where I sat and chatted first with Emily, and then with Liam for a bit around tea time.

A short bit on was the campsite where we came across a cardboard sign declaring “free organic plums” beside a bag of said plums. I may have helped myself to six or seven of them, they were delicious! Emily burst out laughing when she looked at me to find a plum in my cheek, a bit like a chipmunk, with another couple in my hands… Whoops! This piece of trail magic was right by the campsite so Emily and I continued down to the grassy shoreline and pitched up under some trees. We were soon joined by Liam (who continued on) and Rob and Reid.

Reid then made the best discovery of the trail so far, he found a frisbee in the bush! We had just been chatting about having a frisbee the other day and it seemed the universe had answered us! Tossing the disc about between us before dinner, we had a great time! Yeah, we’ll be taking this with us up the Richmonds I think. Just along the South Island in general maybe!

Saturday 14th January

An easy day today. We packed up at a leisurely pace, confident in the knowledge we only had a happy 23km day, give or take. We ate breakfast together down at the beach and then set off. It was cloudy, with a muggy feeling to the air, like we were wading through the thick air.

The last little bit of the QCT was in the same NZ bush as the rest of it had been before we emerged into Anakiwa, and that was that. QCT done. We had an explore down the jetty at Anakiwa before we set off down the road, walking along the side of it on a beaten track. We slowly ran out of words and our minds turned inwards and one by one, we strung ourselves out in a line and put in earbuds and started listening to music.

Me, I was listening to a whole eclectic mix. My mind hopped from song to song, mood altering as it did. I was in a dancing mood for a while so I jammed out to some lively music for a while, dancing as I walked. All elbows and knees, nothing too sophisticated. I’m sure many car drivers were rather surprised or confused or laughing.

Down the road, past Linkwater (where we stopped for a regroup and an ice cream) and onto the Linkwater track into Havelock. On the map, this was just beside the road for the whole way so I wasn’t expecting much, but man I was surprised! The road ran beside the Pelorus Sound and the track climbed up and above it so we were looking out over this wonderful body of water, layers of hills behind. It was an easy track so I got to really looks at the view. Loved it so much. The colour was so unique! Almost a sea green, turquoise, ice blue mix. Once again, photos never do it justice.

We got to the lookout around lunchtime but I wasn’t too hungry so I continued on the last 5km to Havelock and the campground before stopping for some food. Got lost on the way there though by going round the wrong side of the marina. Whoops.

I checked in and then checked the post. I was expecting a food box to have arrived so I wouldn’t have to shop at the expensive Four Square in town. I found Reid’s box, Rob’s box but not mine! We all posted them on the same day. Reid an hour before me, Rob several hours after me but alas, nothing for me! Tragedy! I checked the tracking number and sure enough, it was still in transit! How frustrating, apparently it wouldn’t be delivered until Monday at the earliest. Grrrrr

Therefore, having eaten and pitched my tent, I set off to the Four Square and did a 8-10 day resupply. Once Rob also arrived, we all did some laundry and left it to dry out in the baking sun. I spent the rest of the afternoon socialising with all the hikers which I either knew or was meeting for the first time. Fun times. All really nice people too, as ever! I also stitched up my shoes. I had a new pair waiting for me in St Arnaud, but I needed this pair to last the Richmonds first! Therefore, I was bent over, shoes close to my face as I sewed up the rips in them. I was much like the shape of a capital G. I was impressed with my work for sure!

When the evening came round, I gorged myself on more food I had bought. I ate so much. I then went to my tent, put some music in and sorted out my gear for the next day. Richmonds, here we come.

New People

  • Grettel: Belgian lady who talks a lot and has hiked all the roads in a pair of sandals rather than her La Sportiva shoes.
  • Julian: American guy who carries a dozen eggs packed between a pair of crocs in his bag.
  • Michaela: Italian guy from Udine who’s first language isn’t Italian but a dialect of German, Italian and something else. I forgot the name of the dialect too. Whoops. Sorry.

Status

  • Physical: 10/10
  • Mental: 10/10
  • Distance covered: 1805km
  • Most memorable moment: Eatwells Lookout, or the view over Pelorus Sound
  • Toughest moment: Not getting my food box I had sent to myself and having to resupply on a limited selection of food. Or the rain at the beginning of the QCT.
  • Burnt-o-meter: 5/10
  • Random thoughts: I wonder what it would be to live in a super remote, isolated place where you have to go to the shops with your boat?
  • Number of times I have fallen: 15
  • Peanut butter jars finished: 11
  • Oatly bars: 63
  • Song suggestion: Helios Overture, Op.17; Carl Nielson

What’s Next?

The Richmond Ranges! This is the longest, unsupported, isolated section of the trail. We will be without towns or roads or phone signal for 8-10 days, weather depending. Stoked for it though, meant to be beautiful and plenty of huts to stay at instead of camping.

Then, we walk into St Arnaud and then through the Nelson Lakes. We’ll probably go off TA trail here, taking the St James cycleway to Hamner Springs to resupply before Arthur’s Pass National Park. But that’s still in the works and being discussed (the alternative is to do the TA trail and then hitch out to resupply, as the trail notes suggest).

Comments (2)

  1. Karen McLeay

    Reply

    Really enjoy reading your descriptive and humorous narration. As I type you will have just passed over the Waiau saddle. I hope the weather is behaving and that you are all well and happy. So much jaw droppingly beautiful scenery you are hiking through. Keep up the good work!

    • Al

      Reply

      Hi! Yes, just in Hanmer Springs. The Nelson Lakes have been so beautiful. Hopefully posting some photos soon. Glad you’re enjoying my little project. Stay safe up north!

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