Please comment if you want maps of where I started and walked to and from. Is this a good idea? Hmmmm, thinking hat is firmly on
OK, so I have split the TA into a bunch of different sections, each equating to a nice distance and couple days. For the North Island, they are:
- Northland
- Cape Reinga to Kaitaia (115km)
- Kaitaia to Kerikeri (110km)
- Kerikeri to Whanaki (100km)
- Whanaki to Mangawhai (125km)
- Auckland
- Waikato-King Country
- Manawatū-Whanganui
- Wellington
Short Summary
Monday 31st October
I caught the shuttle up to Cape Reinga, sharing the shuttle with Kevin and Daphne, two other people hiking the TA with me. We had a great time chatting in the car before we arrived at the Cape.
Once we got there, and after a little photoshoot, we set off towards Twilight Camp. You cross some hills and drop down onto Te Werahi Beach, first short bit of beach walking before you cross over Cape Maria Van Diemen (what a name!) which is full of colourful clay. My hip was completely fine too, much to my relief. A couple hours in the saddle, couple of kilometers under the belt and all was good!
From there, you drop down onto the beautiful Twilight Beach and march into camp. I walked in with a Frenchman, Nico, and we sat in the sun as other hikers walked in. We spent the evening, chatting, getting to know each other, and going swimming. I even went up to my knees, shocking. I thought I saw some penguins too!… But they were sea cormorants, whoops.
Cheese. Credit to Daphné
Te Werahi Beach Orange triangles
Tuesday 1st November
Up at the crack of dawn and the start of Ninety Mile Beach. Honestly, not gonna lie, not much happened this day. I headed out in front of everyone and unbroken sand stretched in front of me. Roughly 5 cars passed me, zipping past with clouds of dust being raised in their wake. But for the entire day it was just sea on the right and dunes on the left and sand ahead of me.
I spent the day listening to music, drawing in the sand and watching the island out at sea (which had a hole in it) slowly get bigger and then eventually get smaller. Thrilling, I know.
I got into camp at Maunganui Bluff camp for lunchtime and pitched my tent to dry it out before other people started arriving too. The afternoon was spent decompressing and eventually going in the sea too…
The intro to Ninety Mile Beach
Wednesday 2nd November
Yep, cool, got up again and left pretty pronto. Once more, as soon as I left I was walking along Ninety Mile Beach. The sand is hard, by the way, when you’re walking down by the waterline, so isn’t too much effort. Kinda hard actually.
Within a couple hours, there was nothing to distinguish where I was or how far I had come. Just… Dunes, beach and sea. The sun was hot though and I had to keep topping up my suncream every couple hours. Like, my arms are so much more freckled now!
I got into Hukatere Lodge camp and again set my tent up, spending the afternoon nursing sore feet, drinking tea and having a nice time chilling. I also had signal! So I messaged some friends and family.
Checking behind me
Wild horses! Contemplative Kevin
Thursday 3rd November
Got up even earlier today since there was rain due and I wanted to pack my tent away whilst it was still dry. And indeed, just as I was finishing packing my pack and about to tuck into breakfast, the heavenly sprinkler turned on and the drizzle started. Phew, close escape!
I headed down the beach, walking most of the way with Antoine and Marion, or playing leapfrog with them – at points they were ahead of me, at points I was ahead of them.
The last slog into Ahipara was brutal. I had had enough of Ninety Mile Beach at this point. The sand was hard and the landscape was monotonous so finally getting into Ahipara was nice. The campsite had well pressured showers and some laundry and so I had a nice relaxing afternoon and evening there.
Heard of the joke with the seagull and the fishing rod? Me neither
Friday 4th November
Kevin, Reid and I hitch hiked into Kaitaia from Ahipara (after a scare where I thought I’d lost my phone!…) since the road was a bit hairy to walk along. Thanks to Richard for the lift! We were dropped by the Pak ‘n Save, the greatest supermarket ever, where we resupplied for our hike out to Kerikeri.
A short jaunt through town and we made it to the beginning of State Highway 1 where we then stuck the thumb out again to get a lift 5km up the road to Ruaroa Road. Before long, a car stopped and we hopped in with Pete for a lift up that way. All the hostels were booked out so we weren’t staying in Kaitaia and moving on straight away. Section 1.1, done! Winning
New People I have met
This is gonna be nerve-wracking, because I know these guys may read this, so I’m not doing anything detailed! Eek, I really hope I don’t offend anyone!…
- Nico: French guy who lived in Paris and tried the “normal life” but decided it wasn’t for him. Recovering from jetlag.
- Daphne: Belgian lady who is doing her own podcast (plug) and still recovering from jetlag.
- Kevin: Scottish-turned-Australian psychiatric nurse with the most glorious beard and broad Scots accent.
- Leanna: Kiwi lady who is basically a grown up Flora. Swam competitively and now does a tonne of outdoor stuff.
- Ali and Ryan: Kiwi couple who nicknamed me the “Red Rocket”. No idea why………
- Robert: German guy from somewhere near Dortmund and has a blue Osprey (woo).
- Johanna: 18 year old German lady who I met in Auckland at the hostel.
- Andrea: Austrian lady who hitch hiked up to Cape Reinga with Johanna
- Antoine and Marion: French-Canadian couple who are doing this walk for the second time.
- Niv: Guy from Israel with the lightest pack ever
- Reid: Kiwi from Hamilton, the “most beautiful city in New Zealand” and who started a day behind me, but beasted out Ninety Mile Beach.
- Justin and Sam: Kiwi couple doing this together. Justin looks like a young Bradley Cooper
Status
- Physical: 8/10 – blister on my left toe and my hip is a little stiff occasionally. Stretching helps!
- Mental: 10/10 – enthusiasm, positivity and happiness!
- Distance covered: 115km to Kaitaia
- Most memorable moment: Either Cape Reinga or emerging out onto Ninety Mile Beach for the first time
- Toughest moment: Last, like, 14km of Ninety Mile Beach
- Musical Suggestion: Coastline, Hollow Coves
What’s Next?
Now, I head to Kerikeri. I am hitch hiking out to Ruaroa Road before heading to Broadwood and heading along the road to Mangamuka. From there, you head along the Omahuta Road and along the Omahuta Puketī Forest Track, out into Kerikeri. 110km. Should take 4-5 days or so me thinks. Maybe less. Resupply in Kerikeri.
Daphne
Al
.
Al